When I reached the summit of Aconcagua in 2007, Luwang asked me to wait a moment. He had a mission to fulfill before we left the top of the mountain.
He walked over to a precipitous edge of the craggy summit and released what looked like a thick pad of pink and white paper. The small papers fluttered in the wind. There were hundreds almost taking to flight like a flock of doves. I watched as he spoke words I didn't understand. But I could feel their meaning.
Luwang was releasing hundreds of prayers. Sending them to the heavens; for Buddha, for mankind, for the Sherpa, for Nepal.
Today Nepal needs those prayers more than ever.
Possibly you never gave much thought to Nepal. It is a sliver of a country between China and India. The mighty Himalayas protect it's borders like a fortress cradling this country of immense beauty.
Hundreds of tribes, languages, Hindus, Buddhists, cows wandering the dirty streets. It is colorful prayer flags flying in the wind, dust and grime. Temples, cremations along the banks of a squalid river, bells, smells, white faced priests, motorbikes, saffron robes, monks wearing Crocs, women wrapped in red saris, monkeys swinging from the tops of the stupas. It is a cacophony of humanity pouring into the streets and I love it beyond words.
My relationship with Nepal and it's people began over 7 years ago when I was climbing in the Mera Valley far from the now famous trek to Everest base camp and the small villages dotting the path. The Mera Valley is remote and in the fall, just after monsoon ends, it is void of people. Only an occasional shepherd with a newborn lamp slung over his neck and his flock of way ward sheep. Like all of Nepal it is magnificent.
We were on our way to climb Baruntse as a practice climb for Everest the following spring. But as too often happens a Sherpa was killed on the way to the summit. He left behind an 18 year old wife and an 18 month old baby girl.
I have been raising Phurba Ang for the past 7 years. She is almost 9 now although the Sherpa do not celebrate nor record births so one is never certain of one's age.
Initially I sent US dollars to the village where Phurba Ang lived with her mother. There is no postal service, cars, roads or any means of transportation other than a yak for large loads or your own two feet. Large loads also carried upon the backs of the Sherpa as they move around this immense valley.
Despite the corruption in Nepal, the money, in cash, always made it's way to Phurba Ang.
As serendipity would have it, I made a life long friend in a man named Tsedam Sherpa. Our meeting and subsequent friendship has solidified my love for Nepal. Tsedam is a true saint. Tsedam was chosen. Tsedam is single handedly changing Nepal.
Tsedam upon the urging of his daughter, Kami, recognized the need for the education of his people. The Sherpa. Sherpa live in remote valleys tucked into the mountainside. They are physically strong, resilient and will give their lives for their fellow man. Nothing is too much for them and if you make a request of them they will happily and joyfully move heaven and earth to fulfill it. Their smiles are captivating. Their energy boundless. They are truly the fabric of the Himalayas.
But their culture, language and lifestyle are disappearing. Tsedam has asked the Nepalese government for aid but when none was forthcoming he decided to provide the solution himself.
12 children moved into his small guest house, The Zamling, perched on one of the many terraces on the hillside that makes up the unofficial Sherpa capital of Namche Bazar. Namche isn't large, maybe 1500, but by standards of the region it is a bustling enclave. When you enter through the village gate chickens scatter as you make your way past the public bathing- laundry fountain to the many prayer bells you ring as you enter. The bells again called upon to raise prayers to the winds and beyond.
The 12 children from the valley soon became 17 then 30 all somehow living with Tsedam and his wife. As their numbers kept rising Tsedam went out and found a building and with his own hard work and mostly his own money, he converted it into a youth hostile for the children. He would see to their every need and get them to the Shree Primary School above Namche. At the hostile they would have wholesome meals, warm clothes, shoes. But more importantly, they get extensive academics in addition to what they learn at the public school. They learn to read and write the Sherpa language, Nepalese and English, traditional dance and music. They attend holy events and festivals making religious treks in celebration of their heritage.
Today Tsedam is the 'father' of 70 children.
And this man is doing all this on his own with very little outside aid except for a few climbing companies and people such as myself. He does it because of his strong beliefs. He does it for his people and to protect their culture and heritage. He does it because he recognizes the abject poverty that encompasses Nepal and by making this contribution he can affect change and through education, a positive impact on the future of the Sherpa and Nepal.
As I write this Tsedam, his wife Ang Phurba, his eldest daughter, Kami, her baby and the children of Home Away from Home have evacuated Namche Bazar and are living in tents above the village. The village is not safe, the after shocks since the 7.9 magnitude quake on April 25, make the ground feel like "moving jello".
An historic Buddhist monastery next door to Tsedam's house has collapsed. Tsedam's private prayer room is badly damaged and as Tsering, Tsedam's younger daughter, asked me, "Is God angry with us?"
I feel helpless. I adopted Nepal years ago and had plans to return and teach at Home Away From Home. The lure of a simpler life, pure of heart and spirit and some of the happiest people on earth continues to draw at my heart.
Today my heart is breaking.
Please send your prayers to the winds for Tsedam, his children and all of Nepal.
I did not write this blog to solicit for donations but perhaps you could take a moment, look at your own life and see if you can't make a donation to Nepal. As we witness the massive destruction, loss of life and loss of valuable ancient artifacts, think of Tsedam, who is single handedly trying to make a difference in the lives of so many.
Namaste,
- Wendy
